TUDOR introduces a bold version of its popular model, the Black Bay 58, in 18 ct yellow gold with an open case back, Manufacture Calibre and now a solid gold bracelet, complete with “T-fit” clasp.
The name Black Bay 58 18K is, of course, a reference to the precious metal of its case and bracelet, but also to 1958, the year in which the first TUDOR divers’ watch waterproof to 200 metres (660 ft), reference 7924 or “Big Crown”, was introduced. The Black Bay 58 18K is also the first TUDOR divers’ watch to be made in 18 ct solid yellow gold, offered with an open case back. And now it comes with a matching all satin-finished 18 ct yellow gold bracelet to boot.
“Golden green” dial with applied hour markers in 18 ct yellow gold
A hallmark of TUDOR divers’ watches introduced in 1969, in 18 ct yellow gold, with Grade A Swiss Super-LumiNova luminescent material
Certified by the Official Swiss Chronometer Testing Institute (COSC) with a hairspring in silicon and a 70-hour power reserve
39mm case with satin finish in 18 ct yellow gold with an open case back
3-link 18 ct yellow gold bracelet with TUDOR “T-fit” rapid adjustment clasp
With no registration or periodic maintenance checks required
Entirely satin-finished for a matt effect, the 18 ct yellow gold case of the Black Bay 58 18K is another first for a TUDOR divers' watch.
An open case back, which reveals the new Manufacture Calibre MT5400, has not been offered by the brand before for this type of product and reinforces the dual aesthetic language of this model. Midway between the legacy of a robust tool-watch that still defines TUDOR and a precious object, the Black Bay 58 18K remains as rare as it is exclusive.
The matt 18 ct yellow gold of the Black Bay 58 18K is emphasised by the combination of dial and bezel, which are a rich “golden green” in tone with matt gold details. The “Snowflake” hands are also in 18 ct yellow gold, as are the applied hour markers.
Another first for a TUDOR diving watch, the Black Bay 58 18K now comes with a solid gold 3-link bracelet featuring the TUDOR “T-fit” clasp, an ingenuous system for rapid length adjustment.
The Manufacture Calibre MT5400, which powers the Black Bay 58 18K, displays hour, minute and second functions. It has the finish typical of TUDOR Manufacture Calibres: its rotor in tungsten monobloc is openwork and satin-brushed with sand-blasted details, and its bridges and mainplate have alternate sand-blasted and polished surfaces and laser decorations.
The build of the Manufacture Calibre MT5400 is designed to ensure robustness and precision. To do this, the variable inertia balance wheel is maintained by a sturdy traversing bridge with two-point anchoring. It is certified as a chronometer by the Official Swiss Chronometer Testing Institute (COSC), with its performance going beyond the standards set by this independent institute. In fact, where COSC allows an average variation in the daily rate of an uncased movement of between -4 and +6 seconds, TUDOR applies a 6-second (-2/+4) variation standard on its fully assembled watches with Manufacture Calibres.
Another notable feature is that the power reserve of the Manufacture Calibre MT5400 is “weekend-proof”; that is to say about 70 hours, which enables the wearer to take the watch off on a Friday evening and put it back on again on Monday morning without having to reset it.
The Black Bay line features dials inspired by the TUDOR divers’ watches produced during the 1950s.
It borrows the characteristic angular hands known to collectors as “Snowflake” from models that appeared in the brand’s 1969 catalogue. Its shoulderless crown and the characteristics of its case are reminiscent of the first generations of TUDOR divers' watches.
The Black Bay line is the result of the subtle blend of traditional aesthetics and contemporary watchmaking. Far from simply being an identical re-release of a classic, it brings together 70 years of TUDOR dive watches, whilst at the same time being resolutely anchored in the present. It is neo-vintage in conception, yet its manufacturing techniques, reliability, robustness and the quality of its finishes are consistent with today's more rigorous requirements.
Every TUDOR watch, including the Black Bay, is assembled and fully tested to TUDOR’s superior standards at the new TUDOR Manufacture located in the Le Locle, Switzerland.
This new state-of-the-art facility, bringing together the know-how of watchmakers with the best in production management and automated testing systems, was completed in 2021 after three years of construction. All decked out in TUDOR red, the Manufacture spans over four levels totaling more than 5,500 square meters and is physically and visually connected to the neighboring Kenissi Manufacture, the TUDOR movement production facility founded in 2016.
With Kenissi and a network of TUDOR-owned affiliates, the brand has been able to integrate the development and production of high-performance mechanical calibers. As a consequence, TUDOR now fully masters the manufacturing of strategic components and can guarantee their quality.
39mm 18 ct yellow gold case with satin finish throughout
Open case back with sapphire crystal
60-minute unidirectional rotatable bezel in 18 ct yellow gold with matt green anodised aluminium insert
18 ct yellow gold screw-down winding crown with the TUDOR rose in relief and circular satin-brushed 18 ct yellow gold winding crown tube
Matt green, domed, with 18 ct gold applied hour markers
Domed sapphire crystal
Waterproof to 200m (660 ft)
3-link 18 ct yellow gold bracelet with satin finish throughout and 18 ct yellow gold “T-fit” clasp
Manufacture Calibre MT5400
Self-winding mechanical movement with bidirectional rotor system
Swiss Chronometer officially certified by the COSC (Swiss Official Chronometer Testing Institute)
Centre hour, minute and seconds hands
Stop-seconds for precise time setting
Variable inertia balance, micro-adjustment by screw
Non-magnetic silicon balance spring
Frequency: 28,800 beats/hour (4 Hz)
30.3 mm
5 mm
27 jewels
Approximately 70 hours
