The special details of a true icon
The Rolex Oyster Perpetual Submariner is indeed the reference, the very archetype of purpose-built dive watches – and not only those, but of the modern luxury watch in general as well. This month we compare the Submariner Date reference 116610LN to the new and enlarged Sea-Dweller that we discussed in a separate article.
The Rolex Submariner is one of the very few watches truly worthy of the "iconic" title. It has inspired countless watches, as so many have tried – and failed – to replicate its timeless beauty, effortless elegance and go-anywhere style. One could certainly write an ode to the design – but today we shall try and do not only that, but support our enthusiasm with facts and analysis.
At 40 mm wide, the Submariner is bang on perfect with its proportions and style. As watch trends come and go, we see the trendy watch case diameter fluctuate between 38 and 44 millimeters – generally speaking, of course. Normally, sporty watches are large and bold, whereas dress watches are smaller and more restrained. The Submariner strikes the perfect balance by coming in at a size that many consider to be suitable not only for an active lifestyle, but also for more formal occasions.
Perhaps the most remarkable aspect that many struggle to identify – but nevertheless appreciate on a daily basis – is the fantastic thinness of the Submariner's Oyster case. Water resistant to a depth of 300 meters (or 1,000 feet) and fitted with a full-sized self-winding rotor, this robust watch comes with an astonishingly slender case.
The 3-link Oyster bracelet gently wraps around the wrist, while its immaculate end-link integration into the lug structure of the case further elevates wearing comfort. The Submariner sits securely and solidly on the wrist, with great balance and the distinct ability to boldly stand out and make a statement, or hide under a shirt's sleeve – depending on what the situation requires of it. The bracelet is fitted with an Oysterlock safety clasp that hides a Glidelock extension system, enabling the Submariner to be accurately adjusted to your wrist, should it expand or contract in more or less humid or hot environments.
The Submariner's long-standing "Maxi-case," as collectors like to call it, entails wider lugs when viewed from above or from the front, rendering the 40mm case that much wider and bolder, compared to Submariners of old that had a more curvaceous lug profile. This extended "stance" means the Submariner holds up with the time's requirements of bolder, stronger-looking timepieces, but effectively maintains the size that continues to make it the right choice for so many proud owners who wear their Submariner every day.
Rolex's efforts to make this truly outstanding design into something larger with the now-43mm Sea-Dweller become obvious when one looks at the Submariner: its elegance and the ease with which it carries its substantial design are hard to replicate at a larger size. Still, Rolex has shown once again why it takes its precious time with new updates and major releases: it busies itself with getting the finer, more obscure details right too – and that includes proportions.
Equipped with the 3135 Rolex Caliber, the Submariner is a Rolex Superlative Chronometer Certified timepiece that has passed both the independent COSC Chronometer as well as Rolex's rigorous in-house quality control tests with flying colors.
Whether the 40mm-wide Submariner or the 43mm-wide Sea-Dweller is the perfect choice for you, we would be most delighted to help you determine in any one of the Petite Geneve Petrovic boutiques in Budapest, Belgrade or Porto Montenegro.
